Beginner’s Guide to Rock Climbing in Yosemite Valley
Although Yosemite Valley is known mainly for the towering granite monoliths of El Capitan and Half Dome, it also has plenty of easier trad climbing classics. This guide covers a number of trad climbs in the 5.5 to 5.7 range for beginning traditional climbers. Be wary of climbing grades in Yosemite, as they tend to be much more difficult than a sport climb at the same grade. Since you need to know how to place traditional protection (nuts and cams), first learn from an expert and practice on the ground and on toprope so you can be safe. If you want to know more about trad protection, here’s an overview of traditional rock climbing equipment. If you are more into sport climbing, then check out my guides to climbing in Red Rocks, NV and climbing in Thailand.
Yosemite Valley
Area Overview
Yosemite Valley contains some of the best granite climbing in the world. From single pitch cracks to multipitch runout slabs, it has a great collection of climbs on solid rock. The climbing in Yosemite Valley tends to be spread out, with only a few climbs at each crag, so be ready to move around during the day if you are looking for a lot of climbs at the same difficulty level.
The Guidebooks
Pick up a copy of Yosemite Valley Free Climbs by SuperTopo
A few good books for honing your trad climbing skills are Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills
How to get there
Yosemite Valley is a 4 hour drive from San Francisco and about 5.5 hours from Los Angeles. It is also about 11 hours from Salt Lake City, Utah.
When to go
It is possible to climb in Yosemite year round, but the best times are April through June and September to October. The summer can be really hot and the winter can be really wet, however, I’ve climbed there in the summer and winter when the weather is right. Check the weather in Yosemite before you go.
The Climbs
I have put together an ordered guide to trad climbing in Yosemite valley, from topropes to your first single-pitch trad lead and then multi-pitch climbs. This will take you from newbie to the classics in no time! All of these climbs are in the SuperTopo, so make sure to bring a copy of that.
Topropes
You can walk to the top of all of these topropes, but many of them require some cams or nuts to build an anchor. Bring long slings and a cordalette as well.
Penthouse Cracks and West Slabs
5.6-5.9 at Swan Slab.
These convenient topropes are short but good for running laps on to get used to slab and crack techniques.
Pot Belly and Unnamed
5.8-5.9 at Knob Hill.
The bolts were chopped at the top of these climbs as of early 2007, but they may be back now. You can set up a natural anchor at the top. These challenging climbs allow for a few variations.
Highway Star
5.10a
This is a great toprope to challenge yourself on. The setup is easy, but make sure no one else is at the climb because it’s the only one there. There is also a 10b variation.
Single Pitch Climbs
These are all great leads to get you started. Make sure you feel solid on toprope at the grade and practice placing protection on toprope.
Oak Tree Flake
5.6 at Swan Slabs.
This is a great first trad lead. Go all the way to the anchor at the tree and you can toprope Grant’s Crack, a good 5.9 crack as well as more challenging 5.10a and 5.10c climbs to the right of Grant’s Crack.
Maria leading Oak Tree Flake on her first trad lead.
Jamcrack, Pitch 1
5.7 at Sunnyside Bench.
This is a classic introduction to 5.7 climbing in Yosemite. It is a beautiful hand crack up to bolted anchors and is not to be missed. There is a second 5.9 pitch if you are up for it and you can toprope a tough 5.10c crack from the first pitch anchors.
Claude’s Delight
5.7 at Swan Slab.
This adventurous 5.7 is well protected and from the bolted anchors at the top you can toprope Lena’s Lieback, a great 5.9 lieback and Goat For It, a 5.10a face climb in between Claude’s Delight and Lena’s Lieback.
Multi Pitch Climbs
After you feel solid leading 5.6 and 5.7 single pitch climbs, doing multi-pitch climbs in Yosemite valley will be extremely rewarding. You will be surrounded by amazing views from places that no tourist will ever get to.
Sunnyside Bench, Regular Route
5.4 at Sunnyside Bench.
This easy climb only has short sections of fifth class climbing and is a great introduction to multipitch trad climbing.
Munginella
5.6 at Five Open Books.
This 3 pitch climb is a great first multipitch climb. It is varied, well protected and no section is very sustained, so there’s always a rest nearby. Once you have done the other climbs in this guide and are ready to break into the 5.9 grade, come back for Commitment, which is the 3 pitch climb to the right of Munginella.
The Grack, Center
5.6 at Glacier Point Apron.
This 3-pitch classic climb follows an arching splitter crack on the low angle slab below Glacier Point. The last fifteen feet on the final pitch go up unprotected slab to the anchors, so set some protection before the crack peters out and take the time to find the holds. This climb really forces you to use crack technique since the rock around the crack is entirely smooth in many places.
Climbers on The Grack, 5.6
After Six
5.7 at Manure Pile Buttress.
This 6 pitch climb is a great medium length climb and a superb introduction to 5.7 multi-pitch. The first pitch is 5.7, ascends an awkward corner and is challenging, but well protected. The second pitch is third class and the last four pitches are 5.6. The last four pitches are not as well protected, but after the difficulties of the first pitch, things seem easy.
Looking down from near the top on After Six.
Royal Arches
5.7 A0 at Royal Arches.
With around 16 pitches of awesome climbing in a spectacular setting, Royal Arches is an uber-classic. Start really early to avoid the crowds. When I did this, we started climbing at 5:30am, simul-climbed 90+% of the route and were up at the top by 8am. We didn’t see anyone else on the route. For more beta, take a look at my trip report for Royal Arches. To move fast, try to simul-climb the easier sections, since setting up belays is the place where you lose the most time. If you don’t feel comfortable simul-climbing, then give yourself plenty of time to complete the route.
At the top of Royal Arches - success!
Snake Dike
5.7R at Half Dome.
This 8-pitch climb is remarkable for a number of reasons: its location, the long approach and descent hike (~15 miles round trip), and the beautiful, runout dike. Be ready for long runouts on 5.3 and 5.4 with the 5.7 sections better protected. The key to the runout climbing on Snake Dike is to keep a calm mind, find the good holds and keep moving. I have a trip report to climbing Snake Dike that contains more info.
Looking down from the top of Half Dome
Conclusion
Once you have completed these amazing climbs in Yosemite Valley, you will be ready to tackle more difficult challenges in the 5.8 to 5.9 range. There are many classics in the valley at that level and up, so take a look at the book when you’re ready for those.
Sources
Yosemite Valley Free Climbs: Supertopos
Yosemite Climbs: Free Climbs: Free Climbs
