Overview
The Karakoram Highway stretches about 1300 kilometers from near Islamabad, Pakistan to Kashgar, China. It curls through amazing terrain along the way with views of many 7000 meter peaks and glaciers reaching nearly to the road. Many tourists travel the entire length, stopping at villages along the way to take in the sights, trek and meet the locals. One of the common stops is at Passu, in the Upper Hunza Valley in Pakistan. The Passu Glacier is visible from the road and the town is a starting point for a number of other treks. When we stopped at Passu and met the Glacier Breeze Restaurant owner Ahmed Ali Khan, we discovered that the Hot Rocks Global Challenge team was in Passu in 2004. They stayed at his campsite for a week, rock climbing and bouldering during the days. During that time, they bolted 3 sport routes close to the Glacier Breeze Restaurant and also did some bouldering at a nearby plateau. Thankfully, the team left some beta in Ahmed’s guestbook, so we took a look at that, climbed the climbs and put this guide together to spread the word about the sport climbing and bouldering we found in Passu! There is so much rock along the Karakoram Highway that the potential is high for a climbing circuit down its entire length. Let us know if you have any other information on rock climbing along the KKH. The only other place we have heard of climbing at is Karakul Lake, where you can boulder on granite rocks. For more information about the Karakoram Highway, take a look at our travel blog.
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The Sport Routes
Location
The three routes are located on the left hand side of the KKH, about 100 yards north of the Glacier Breeze Restaurant sign. They are only 25 feet off the road and the start of one is clearly marked by graffiti, saying ‘PSA’ (for Pakistani Students’ Association).
The Cliff
Passu Sport Climbing Routes
The cliff is 30 meters high and you can either lead the routes or toprope them by walking to the right of the cliff until you reach a steep scree and boulder slope. Walk up the slope to the old irrigation channel and then follow that left until you are at the top of the climbs. The bolts are far from the edge, so be careful and setup a temporary anchor on the big boulders in the irrigation ditch if you need to. There is tons of LOOSE ROCK on and at the top of the climbs, so be extremely careful when climbing and setting up topropes. We had a few holds break on us while climbing, so if you’re not very solid at the grade, then toprope. Wear a helmet and have your belayer stand away and off to the side. Don’t get hurt, cause you’re in Pakistan!
The Climbs
The left climb (when facing the wall), PSA, is 6a+ (5.10b). The middle climb, Sting of the Tail, is also 6a+ (5.10b). The right climb, Apricot Cake, is 6b+ (5.10d) and is named after the famous and delicious dessert from the Glacier Breeze Restaurant. All of the climbs are fun and long. Again, be careful with loose rock, especially on the middle climb, because there is a giant loose block that you’ll be tempted to stand on.
The Bouldering
If you continue walking north down the KKH from the sport climbs, then the road will curve right and in a few minutes there will be a rocky slope up to a plateau on the left hand side of the road. If you see a trail up that, then, good. Otherwise, scramble up and you will find yourself on a long plateau overlooking the town of Passu. You’ll also find a ton of boulders perfect for bouldering!
Bouldering Plateau
Unfortunately, we didn’t have a crashpad so we kept our bouldering to V0 and V1. Here are a few pictures of some boulders we climbed. These ones are all a little north of the cricket field on the plateau.
Here’s a bit of beta for some of our favorites (with locally inspired names):
1: KKH Stretch (V1)
This one involves a lower start, quickly moving left to a far-reaching and sharp but solid hold. A few easier moves complete the route.
2: Drying Hay (V0), 3: Drying More Hay (V0)
Good warmup climbs with decent holds throughout. High top out but easy descent via the backside, labeled in the photo.
4: Hunza Hat (V1+ going either way)
A great traverse along the hat’s 3/4 section. When traversing from right to left, the feet holds are a little trickier to find. Good crimpers gets you through it. You can also top out at multiple points along the traverse for a nice view.
There are a slew of other great routes and you could easily spend an afternoon or early evening bouldering up in this area.
If you put up any interesting routes and want them listed here, let us know.
Other Climbing Opportunities in the Area
Between the bouldering plateau and the sport climbs there is good quality rock at the top of the scree fields. It looks like there are many more potential sport routes as well as trad climbing opportunities. If you’re feeling bold and establish new routes in Passu, please email us!
In addition, there are a few areas where the Alpine Club of Pakistan, Pakistan Adventure Club, and even the army come to train. Most of the routes no longer have bolts in them or are bolted with loose pitons and tough wires…not recommended in the state they are in, but it would be great to see them cleaned up! We met a few guys from the PSA and they were eager to learn, so we took them up the PSA route on TR!
The rock feels like a mix of the limestone found at Potrero Chico, Mexico and on the Phra Nang Peninsula, with many, small sharp features and giant tufas on overhanging walls. The Yangshuo Climbing Festival looks to be a great time and we’ll report back on how it goes! 
